Talent powerhouse – Kalki Koechlin – turns Busker for the Master Weavers of India.
Jamdani sari by Marg by Soumitra Mondal is a fine silk khadi sari that is paper thin and weightless. It showcases one of the oldest weaving traditions of India and is believed that during the reign of Emperor Jahangir (1605-1627), this fine, gossamer like fabric got its name. The sari that Kalki is wearing took three months on the loom to be made. Like Soumitra reminds us,”when you buy this sari, you are receiving three months of an artist’s life- replete with his thoughts, emotions and artistic challenges.”
Khun shorts by Vaishali S. :Khun is a hand spun, hand woven brocade weave predominantly from Sholapur, Maharashtra. The weave got its name from Khun that means sugar as it is woven in the sugar producing parts of the state. This weave has been an integral part of Maharashtrian women’s wardrobe as sari blouses for centuries.
Kedia style jacket is by Divyam Mehta
Hand crafted steel and thread neck piece by En Inde
Silver jewellery by Silver Streak is hand made by the Tribal artists of Bihar.
Kalki Koechlin is wearing a Chanderi sari by Vaishali S. that, as a folklore suggests, was called so for it had round, moon (Chand) like motifs. The popularity of it led to the place getting its name. It’s a centuries old weaving technique, originating back in the Vedic Period, and is believed to have been founded by Lord Krishna’s cousin, Shishupal. Chanderi Saree, a product intricately woven by hand interspersed with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs, has always been the preferred fabric for the top strata of uber stylish people.
The sari has been pre-draped in a Kashta (Maharashtrian style where one end of the sari is tucked behind) style. Though this drape lost its sheen when the lower-middle class working women started patronising it but one can appreciate that it was a garment that afforded a trouser like freedom of movement to the wearer.
Kalki Koechin is wearing a Chanderi sari with a contemporary self pattern, a departure from the traditional motifs, developed to cater to the tastes of the modern consumers.
Sari by Vaishali S
The racer back top is made from Tusser silk with Kantha work on it. Tusser is also, many a times, made in a non violent way, where the cocoons are air dried. Since this process makes the shell brittle, the moth can fly away free.
The sari on Kalki Koechlin is a Kora silk sari woven by the Indian Textile Company Pvt Ltd.* at their Banaras looms. The pattern on the sari is half a century old and is a signature style of the Banaras Gaddi (traditional seat of the trader) . It was developed by a team of weavers and traders who have maintained a synergic relationship spanning almost four generations.
In the olden days, the sari was woven in real gold zari but now it is widely popular in tested zari and pastel shades. The improvised motifs and colour palette are a heartful and reassuring testimony to the constant efforts of the Benaras textile craftsmanship.
As an ode to the various weaves of Banaras, that are in different stages of their evolution, Kalki Koechlin’s Rock Star outfit finds it’s voice.
Kalki’s turban is a georgette fabric with Banarsi brocade zari in ‘asharfi’ (gold coin) pattern. It is an improvised texture that, in the past, was done on thick silk as it was used for cummerbunds. But the growing demand for ‘Orhnaas’ or ‘dupattas’ brought about a shift and improvisation was made towards a lighter, more manageable material that we take delight in wearing even today.
‘An artist who is dedicated to her craft, Continue reading